Shallows, AM

By admin

Started off at big rights and had a few fun inside ones but then it got too crowded. There were only 2 guys over at shallows so I paddled over and got some fun drop-ins. Mostly, it was closing out. I went over the falls on one that I tried to pull back on too late.

Then, as I was sitting there this dude yelled “Hey, look out!” I looked up but didn't see any wave coming then I heard something moving in the water next to me. I looked over quickly and at I thought, “Shark, SHARK!” and then I saw my life flash before my eyes because it was right there. But it wasn't a shark, it was a seal. He was about 5 or 6 feet from me. He was brown and funny looking. He was surfacing and just swimming through the spot, saying what's up. I guess that's what seals do…



categoriaSurf Journal commentoNo Comments dataJune 17th, 2008

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