Point Panic, PM

By admin

Tiny and high tide but nice to get in the water…

categoriaSurf Journal commentoNo Comments dataAugust 3rd, 2008
Read All

Shallows,

By admin

Nice morning out for a surf.

categoriaSurf Journal commentoNo Comments dataJuly 24th, 2008
Read All

Incinerators, AM

By admin

the sets were closing out but I had a few nice big drops and a couple medium sized ones that stayed open…

categoriaSurf Journal commentoNo Comments dataJuly 17th, 2008
Read All

Shallows, AM

By admin

Big and totally closed out. Most of the shallows guys were going left over at Marineland so I pretty much had it to myself. I caught some nice quick rides, caught some inside ones too. Big Rights looked good but I was too lazy to paddle over there and deal with the crowd…

categoriaSurf Journal commentoNo Comments dataJuly 16th, 2008
Read All

Shallows, AM

By admin

A little bigger than yesterday. had some nice. almost got run over by this lady.

categoriaSurf Journal commentoNo Comments dataJuly 15th, 2008
Read All

Shallows, AM

By admin

I paddled over to big rights first but only had one wave, too many guys. Went back to shallows where only mitch was there and we had plenty, a lot of fun little ones. last wave was real fun…

categoriaSurf Journal commentoNo Comments dataJuly 14th, 2008
Read All

Incinerators, AM

By admin

Only me and one dude had it for a while. Some nice ones came through right after the tide bottomed out. Then the super long lulls began. The DLNR guys showed up and were parked on the sidewalk so all the guys from Panics paddled over to my spot. I guess one the surfers kept going right and maybe one of the body surfers called the cops, whatevs, it was kind of funny…

categoriaSurf Journal commentoNo Comments dataJuly 13th, 2008
Read All

Incinerators, AM

By admin

Not many people out, had some fun ones before the tide creeped in and choked out the waves.

categoriaSurf Journal commentoNo Comments dataJuly 12th, 2008
Read All

Shallows, AM

By admin

today was bigger than yesterday and very consistent. The sets at shallows were totally closing out but I had some nice inside waves that were about head high. Not too many people out, I think most people figured the swell was backing off but it was totally on!

Got those from flickr, the guy's profile is “Marineland Dan.”

categoriaSurf Journal commentoNo Comments dataJune 18th, 2008
Read All

Shallows, AM

By admin

Started off at big rights and had a few fun inside ones but then it got too crowded. There were only 2 guys over at shallows so I paddled over and got some fun drop-ins. Mostly, it was closing out. I went over the falls on one that I tried to pull back on too late.

Then, as I was sitting there this dude yelled “Hey, look out!” I looked up but didn't see any wave coming then I heard something moving in the water next to me. I looked over quickly and at I thought, “Shark, SHARK!” and then I saw my life flash before my eyes because it was right there. But it wasn't a shark, it was a seal. He was about 5 or 6 feet from me. He was brown and funny looking. He was surfacing and just swimming through the spot, saying what's up. I guess that's what seals do…

categoriaSurf Journal commentoNo Comments dataJune 17th, 2008
Read All